Syria beyond the headlines: a return to the motherland
By Noor Younes
What is the first image that pops into your mind when the word ‘Syria’ is uttered? Is it a montage of destroyed buildings, scenes of annihilated towns, or statistics about its debilitating refugee crisis? Or is it the divine Levantine cuisine, its artisanal masterpieces and handiwork, its historical and cultural landmarks?
That depends — how much do you know about this misunderstood country?
There are increasingly more direct flights to Damascus International Airport, but my family usually makes the trip to Syria via Beirut. So, as my sister and I step out into the comforting familiarity of the humid summertime air of Lebanon, sleep-deprived and overladen with huge suitcases, we anticipate the hours-long car journey to cross the border and reach our grandparents’ home. It is our first time visiting since the collapse of Assad’s dictatorship in December 2024.
Bittersweet nostalgia permeates my body as we approach the familiar driveway, my stomach in knots with both elation and anxiety to finally reunite with my family and my country
Bittersweet nostalgia permeates my body as we approach the familiar driveway, my stomach in knots with both elation and anxiety to finally reunite with my family and my country.
Damascus is my favourite city in the entire world. A cradle of civilization, it is one of the world’s oldest continuously inhabited cities. The marks of previous civilisations — Hellenistic, Roman, Byzantine and Islamic — can be found everywhere, both in the city and the country at large: a 2nd-century Roman theatre in Bosra, ancient Greco-Roman ruins in Palmyra, the Medieval citadel in Aleppo, and many more.
Damascus is home to the Umayyad Mosque, a must-see landmark, with its sprawling courtyard and meticulous mosaic embellishments. One of its minarets is the ‘Minaret of Isa’, or ‘Jesus’, whereupon it is believed, in Islamic tradition, that Jesus will descend to defeat the Anti-Christ. Visited by people of all faiths, the mosque houses a shrine believed to contain John the Baptist (or Prophet Yahya). Conveniently placed by al-Hamadiya marketplace and the Old City, the most significant historical monuments are within walking range of one another. The Old City, however, can be quite dangerous for your wallet, so I advise you to take caution. Here, artisanal crafts are sold – a centuries-old practice in Syrian heritage, including wood carving, mother of pearl inlay, and wood mosaic. The most beloved item in my possession is a chessboard my grandmother gifted to me, bought from one such artisan. Its creative mastery is impossible to describe; the combination of wood and pearl inlay transformed into a beautiful mosaic piece.
Aside from the souqs, a personal favourite place of mine to visit is Sarkeez’s jewellery shop, manned by Sarkeez himself, an eccentric 78-year-old Armenian Orthodox man who never lets you leave his shop without engaging you in a lengthy conversation, generously sharing his wisdom and life’s learnings.
As we drive through my native village, I peer avidly out of the window, observing the breathtaking view overlooking the Anti-Lebanon mountain range in the distance. There are buildings scattered throughout; we pass cafés, restaurants, mosques and churches all in close proximity, defying the misconception that the Middle East is religiously homogenous. Contrarily, it is the birthplace of all three Abrahamic faiths and is made up of many more that have coexisted in the region for centuries. Home to less than 5,000 residents, the Christian village Maa’loula exemplifies this coexistence most pertinently. It is a beautiful village nestled in Qalamoun mountains, one of the last places in the world that speaks Aramaic — the language of Jesus. Its Aramaic name translates to ‘entrance’, and, according to legend, the rock-cut passage in the village was made when the mountain split open for St. Thecla, allowing her to flee from persecution.
Syria’s diversity extends beyond religion — there is a multiplicity of ethnicities within the country. I cannot explain the exasperation when, upon telling someone I am Syrian, they exclaim in disbelief: “but you have blue eyes!”. Though Arabs are portrayed as a monolith, the intrinsic diversities within each city alone create distinct identities and cultural differentiations. A great example is the Al-Muhajireen neighbourhood, translating to ‘the immigrants’ in Arabic, dating back to 1899 where Greeks and Turks immigrated from Crete, as well as Circassians seeking refuge from the Russo-Circassian war, and Armenians fleeing the Ottoman Empire. There are therefore a plethora of ethnic groups coexisting in Syria — Arabs, Kurds, Turkmen, Armenians, Circassians, Assyrians and more.
In visiting Syria, I can say that, above all, its people are undoubtedly the most breathtaking sight to see. Hope is something they have never given up on, and it is this hope and resilience that is currently driving efforts to rebuild and restore the country as it strives to revive its tourism industry. So, who knows, maybe Syria could end up on your travel bucket list in a few years or so…
Image: Noor Younes
