Palatinate’s food editors check out ‘Coarse’
By Millie Adams
Tucked just behind Durham’s bustling North road, the elegant minimalism of Coarse feels a little like Narnia. From the window display of bulbs to the rose gold cutlery, the attention to detail is all part of this fine dining experience where, for £40, guests can enjoy a six-course tasting menu.
There is the opportunity to supplement your meal with a wine pairing for an additional £30 per person. The constraints of a student budget meant we decided to give this a miss but it seemed to be popular amongst other guests and would be worth it for a special occasion (or when student finance comes in). Instead, we started our meal off with a margarita- the brilliant balance of sweet agave and a spicy salt rim made it a worthy course in and of itself!
As much a part of the experience as the food itself, the service at Coarse was also particularly impressive
The menu we were given to follow resembled the restaurant’s design in its minimalism. Each dish is summarised in a couple of words, cutting out the superfluous ‘parfait’ and ‘jus’ jargon usually associated with elegant dining. This added an element of surprise to the introduction of each course. First up, the elusive ‘snacks’ appeared in the form of a sort of DIY bruschetta and a deliciously creamy croquette. Next up, the menu promised ‘leek and potato’ and the peppery foamy dish which appeared redeemed these two uninspiring ingredients which you might otherwise associate with a sad Sunday’s soup. Chopped nuts added dimension to this fluffy dish- the texture as interesting as the flavours.
The trout and venison which followed were equally enjoyable and had similarly imaginative pairings; the venison was coupled with beetroot and blackberries, and the trout with radish and cucumber shavings. The stand-out dish, however, was the scallops and smoked pork. This is optional and an additional eight pounds but the perfectly tender meat and deliciously sweet sauce makes it worth it.
I can imagine it getting particularly busy around graduation time, and look forward to seeing this new small business thrive
Although it was hard to follow such wonderful main courses, the dessert plates were nevertheless impressive. It was unusual ending the meal with a cookie and milkshake and I found myself thinking the ‘orchard fruits’ dish that preceded it might have been a better finale. With a cold, sorbet-like texture, it might have acted as a nice ‘palate cleanser’, though the white chocolate and miso of the cookie, and the fresh raspberry of the milkshake, were not at all disappointing flavours to go out on.
As much a part of the experience as the food itself, the service at Coarse was also particularly impressive. Waiters were friendly and accommodating and seemed to genuinely enjoy talking about the dishes they were serving. All in all, this experience is well worth the money for a special occasion. I can imagine it getting especially busy around graduation time and look forward to seeing this new small business thrive.
Image credit: Rosie Bromiley
