Our guide to Fashion Month’s most iconic moments

By and Agnes Shu

Fashion month has finally run its course, and after more than two years away designers certainly had more than a few tricks up their sleeves. From Gucci’s Twinsburg to the return of Diesel, audiences were left aghast at what New York, London, Milan and Paris had laid bare for the future of fashion.

A running theme across all four fashion weeks was clearly inclusive innovation peppered with the odd nostalgic moment. While Fendi’s Resort 2023 show in New York heralded the return of the supermodel era, with Linda Evangelista making her first runway appearance in fifteen years after time spent overcoming a failed cosmetic procedure, London followed by delving much deeper into the annals of public memory so as to commemorate the life of Queen Elizabeth and her vast influence on the British fashion industry. It was striking to see LFW shrouded over with the same black curtain that first appeared over the nation a little over a month ago, when we remember how alien this dark hue was to a monarch for whom colour often spoke louder than words.

Echoes of the contrast between individuality and community simultaneously felt that the passing of the Queen brought to London were also felt in Milan. Inspired by his mother being a twin herself, Alessandro Michele, Creative Director at Gucci, launched his own version of Twinsburg so as to highlight the need for the recognition of individuality despite shared similarities. Two shows occurred simultaneously with identical looks and separate crowds, only for a barrier to then be lifted in-between to reveal the plot. That is, sixty-eight pairs of twins walking the runway, until then unbeknownst to each half of the audience, side by side.

The relationship between technology and fashion has passed the point of closeness and moved towards one of inseparability

That the relationship between technology and fashion has passed the point of closeness as evidenced by the sheer number of viral moments this year- and moved towards one of inseparability was certainly emphasised.

Beate Karlsson certainly knew how to fashion a viral moment, as models purposely fell to their knees on the runway. With videos reaching upwards of 170K likes on TikTok, AVAVAV’s Milan show became one of the month’s most iconic. This is despite Karlsson telling Vogue that she doesn’t “necessarily want to design things with the intention of being memeable”. Despite the show seemingly being curated for the delight of a virtual audience just as much as a physical one, she also admits to questioning whether she is “doing this because [she] think[s] it will go viral or because it’s something [she] stand[s] behind as a design”. Perhaps the relationship between tech and fashion is much more coincidental than it first appears, beyond the will of designers who cannot always control online reactions.

Fashion tech put the world of social media in a state of awe

 Fashion tech put the world of social media in a state of awe when Coperni’s technology, inspired by Alexander McQueen, saw a dress spray painted onto model Bella Hadid live on the runway in Paris. While audiences were assured that this was done for its viral potential as well as how easy it was to “stand behind as a design”, over in Milan, Balenciaga shared Karlsson’s scepticism of the ‘viral moment’ and its relationship to fashion.

Whether it was for better or for worse, it was no doubt iconic as Balenciaga had their models walk through mud. Viral as it was, however, it was proof beyond doubt that virtual audiences are their own autonomous being. Ironically, the detriment that social media is doing to style was behind the earthy, sloppy mess used to emphasise the need for returning to our own fashion roots- our individuality yet again- from Balenciaga creative director Demna.

Producing moment after moment, this fashion month has evoked an uneven attitude towards what the future of fashion should hold, but has upheld the message that fashion can, and should be, inclusive of individuality as well as community.

This fashion month has evoked an uneven attitude towards what the future of fashion should hold

Here are our top moments from this year’s set of fall presentations:

The return of the supermodel era: With the likes of Bella Hadid’s appearance on just about every other runway or the re-integration of personalities in models’ walks (see: Lil Nas X or Issey Miyake’s presentation), supermodels are certainly making a comeback. There was no better way to celebrate than the appearance of Linda Evangelista at Fendi’s Resort 2023 show in New York.

Back in business: Diesel returns under the helm of Glenn Martins, and they are no doubt already in trend as their public show attracted more than 5,000 in-person viewers — with over 2,000 of them being industry VIPs.

Not property damage: Whether it was for better or for worse, it was no doubt iconic as Balenciaga had their models walk through mud, only to sell the (literally) limited edition shoes post-show.

Seeing double: Inspired by his mother being a twin herself, Alessandro Michele launched Twinsburg — having two shows occur simultaneously with identical looks and separate crowds, only to lift a barrier in-between to reveal the plot.

The spray-painted moment: It’s the perfect meld of technology and fashion. Reminisicent of Alexander McQueen circa 1999, Coperni’s technology saw a dress spray painted live on Bella Hadid live on the runway.

Don’t trip, just fall: This isn’t Beate Karlsson’s first time causing controversy, after her monstrous boots caused social media chaos or her silicon bums for Kim Kardashian. This time, she had her models purposely fall on stage — making for a viral TikTok moment.

Image credit: Raphael Lovaski via Unsplash

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2 thoughts on “Our guide to Fashion Month’s most iconic moments

  • Fashion week is supposed to be all glamorous and glitz, but let’s be real – it’s a hot mess.
    The shows are so long and boring, and half the stuff they’re showing is way too out there for normal people to wear. They should stick to fashionable accessories and practical outfits that everyday ladies would put on.

    Reply
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